Hong Kong is a place with multiple personalities, as a result of being Cantonese with a long-time British influence and increasingly more China connections. Perhaps the hallmark of this city is the frenzied vibrancy and the world class cuisine.

On the surface, it's an urban landscape without the charm of what one would consider " China ." It offers the same upscale shopping malls and boutiques found in other world cities. But the small curious nooks, as well as the beautiful greenery and hiking trails, make it unique. The city is also known for its incredible efficiency as a result of its convenient transport, quick customer service and fast pace.

How to Get In

Hong Kong retains control of its own immigration. The good side of this is that, unlike mainland China , most Western visitors do not need to obtain visas in advance, but the bad side is that a separate visa is required to enter mainland China from Hong Kong . Detailed visa requirements are available from the Immigration Department. Anyone arriving at Hong Kong International Airport and requiring an onward visa for Mainland China , during your stay in Hong Kong , will find a kiosk in the downstairs foyer that issues them. A photo will be required and the staff will be happy to accomodate you.

By plane

Internationally, there is a major way to get into Hong Kong — through the modern Hong Kong International Airport (HKIA or HKG) which is also called Chek Lap Kok, the name of the small island it was built over. Despite initial teething troubles when opened in July 1998, the airport is modern and efficient, and it has been named the Best Airport worldwide by Skytrax for 5 years (until 2005).

There are many direct flights to Hong Kong from every continent in the world except South America and Antarctica . Most major cities in Oceania , Europe and North America are all served with at least one daily flight. Sydney has 5 daily flights, London 10, Frankfurt 2, Paris 2, Amsterdam 2, Los Angeles 3, San Francisco 3, Vancouver 3, New York 3, Chicago 2 and Toronto 2.

Flights between Hong Kong and other major Asian cities are extremely frequent: between 10 and 40 flights per day connect Hong Kong with Singapore , Taipei , Tokyo , Shanghai , Manila , Seoul , Bangkok and Beijing . Other routes may be cheaper, however. For destinations within China , it is often cheaper to fly from Shenzhen than from Hong Kong . For elswhere in Asia , consider Macau . The discount airlines land there because it has lower fees than Hong Kong .

Taxi

A taxi from the airport to the city will cost you around $300 depending on your exact destination. If you have 3 or more people travelling together, it is generally cheaper to travel on a taxi than the Airport Express. Use the taxi with red body for destinations to Hong Kong Island and Kowloon , Green taxi is restricted to New Territories and Blue Taxi for Lantau Island

There is a large chart at the exit to the taxi stand, also available online, on the approximate fares to most destinations. The law is strict on taxi drivers charging according to the meter but there may be times when they intentionally take the longer route for the purpose of overcharging. The meter fare does not include the luggage fee and toll fee.

Taxis from the Airport to downtown Kowloon do not suffer from much traffic congestion. If you are going to Hong Kong Island , tell the taxi driver to use "Western Harbour Crossing" to avoid congestion, but it will attract a surcharge.

By outbound ferry

Hong Kong is only a 1 hour hydrofoil ride away from Macau , and there is good connectivity to mainland China as well. The main terminals are:

* Macau Ferry Terminal, 202 Connaught Road (Sheung Wan MTR exit D), Central o TurboJet, 24 hours a day to Macau

* China Ferry Terminal, 33 Canton Road (Tsim Sha Tsui MTR exit A1), Kowloon

o Chu Kong Shipping, to points throughout Guangdong and Guangzhou

o New World First Ferry, every 30 min to Macau

By land

Crossing the border to Mainland China puts you in Shenzhen, a well-developed boomtown. (Note that there are special visa regulations if you plan to visit Shenzhen.)

There are 4 checkpoints on the Hong Kong - Shenzhen boundary, namely Lo Wu, Lok Ma Chau, Man Kam To and Sha Tau Kok.

Lo Wu control point can only be accessed directly by KCR East Rail trains and is hence the most accessible. However, it is often congested with travellers during weekends and holidays. So if you want to avoid for the long queues, please use the other control points on holidays. Visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side.

Lok Ma Chau control point can be accessed from Kowloon by taking the KCR West Rail. Leave at Long Ping Station and take the bus route 277 at the bus interchange. At Lok Ma Chau, you must switch to a yellow shuttle bus which takes you across the boundary. A faster approach is to alight at Kam Sheung Road Station and interchange with a cross boundary coach which takes you to the Chinese side of checkpoint without interchanging with the shuttle bus.

Alternatively, there are also some Cross Boundary coaches operating from the business districts in Kowloon or Hong Kong Island to the Chinese side of the checkpoint. If you take these coaches, there is no need to change for the yellow shuttle bus and hence it is a good choice for boundary crossing to avoid the queues.

Lok Ma Chau is a around-the-clock border crossing ; visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side (subject to nationality, at current applications from USA and UK passport holders are not accepted).

Man Kam To control point can be accessed by taking the cross-boundary coach on the bus interchange at Landmark North, which is just adjacent to Sheung Shui KCR Station. The 15-minute journey costs $22. It is seldom crowded with travellers even during holiday periods. You can also enjoy the free shuttle service outside the Chinese checkpoint, which takes you to the central area of Shenzhen. However, no Visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side, which means you need to arrange for your visa in advanced before arrival.

It is the best route to go to the downtown in Shenzhen especially during holidays.

Sha Tau Kok control point can be accessed by taking the cross-boundary coach on the bus interchange at Luen Wo Hui in Fanling. It connects the eastern boundary of Hong Kong and Shenzhen and it is a bit remote from the central part on Shenzhen. As a consequence, only very few passengers choose to cross the boundary using this checkpoint. No Visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side.

By train

Kowloon Canton Railway runs regular Through Train service between Guangdong Province , Beijing and Shanghai . The through train terminus is Hung Hom Station on the Kowloon side, while the current terminus of the domestic service is East Tsim Sha Tsui station.

The destinations of the Intercity Passenger Service are Guangzhou (East), Dongguan, Foshan and Zhaoqing in Guangdong Province , as well as Beijing and Shanghai .

The online directory of Intercity Service of Kowloon Canton Railway provides information on the timetable and fare information of the Intercity Passenger Service.

Get around

Hong Kong 's public transport system is highly developed, to the point where often the hardest part is choosing your means of transport.

Octopus card

The Octopus payment card ( ??? , Bat Dat Toong in Cantonese, with reference to a saying in Cantonese Sai Tung Bat Dat, which means convenient transport) is the heart of the public transport system. Octopus is a technology proposed in 1992, developed in 1995 and usable since September 1997. It is a contactless smart card. Even inside a wallet or bag, you can tap on card readers and the correct amount will be deducted from money stored. In addition to being used for all forms of public transport (except red minibuses and taxis), it is also accepted for payments in vitually all convenience stores, restaurant chains like McDonald's and Cafe de Coral, vending machines, all roadside parking and some car parks. Some housing estates and schools use the card for identification at entry.

When travelling by MTR, KCR, and some bus routes, payment by Octopus card always enjoys discount or rebate. It will always cost less to use Octopus card. As it has a fully refundable deposit on the card and on unused credit, it is highly advisable to get an Octopus card when in Hong Kong .

Basic adult Octopus cards cost $150, $100 face value plus $50 refundable deposit, but a $7 service charge now applies if returned in less than 3 months.

In addition to the Airport Express Octopus (see above), you can also buy a 24-hour pass for $50 at any MTR station; however, this is valid only on MTR lines.

Octopus card allows you to 'debt' once, e.g. you may pay for a ride of $5 with a card of value $2 only, but you have to add value afterwards if you want to continue using it. You can add value to the card in MTR stations, KCR stations and also at all stores which accept Octopus card payment.

By subway/underground railway

Hong Kong's Mass Transit Railway (MTR) underground network is the fastest way to get around the city, but what you gain in speed you lose in views and (at least for short distances) price. There are five lines, with the most important ones for visitors being the busy Tsuen Wan Line (red), which tunnels from Central to Kowloon and down Nathan Road towards Tsuen Wan in the New Territories and the Island Line (blue) which runs along the north coast of the Island . The new Tung Chung Line (orange) is the fastest route to Lantau and one of the cheapest ways to the airport when coupled with the S1 shuttle bus stationed at Tung Chung MTR station. The line also provides a link to Hong Kong Disney Land via a change at Sunny Bay station.

By train

The Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) connects Kowloon to Canton ( Guangdong ) in mainland China , but is also an important commuter line. The main KCR East Rail terminates in East Tsim Sha Tsui, where you can interchange with the MTR and the Star Ferry.

The KCR West Rail links up Nam Cheong, which is on the reclaimed land next to Sham Shui Po, and Tuen Mun. It links Kowloon with the Western New Territories . Direct boundary crossing is now not available by KCR West Rail, but you can alight at Long Ping Station and take bus route 277 to the boundary. Alternatively, you can also alight at Kam Sheung Road Station and take the cross boundary coach with a promotional fare if you pay by Octopus card.

The Ma On Shan Railway, a branch of East Rail, starts at Tai Wai Station and terminates at Wu Kai Sha Station. Passengers can make use of the Ma On Shan Railway to travel to Ma On Shan, and to the more rural part of the Sai Kung Country Park .

Tourists can buy a day pass and enjoy unlimited rides on the KCR system including East Rail, West Rail and Ma On Shan Rail (excluding Racecourse and Lo Wu stations).

A station called West Kowloon Station is due to open in 2007 or 2008.

By tram

Operated by Hong Kong Tramways, the narrow double-decker city trams trundling on the north coast of Hong Kong Island are a Hong Kong icon. Trams are slower but the route along the length of Hong Kong Island 's centre is useful and with a flat fare of only $2, they're the cheapest sightseeing tour around.

In a league of its own is the Peak Tram, Hong Kong 's first mechanised mode of transport, opened back in 1888. The remarkably steep 1.7-km track up from Central to Victoria Peak is worth at least one trip despite the comparatively steep price ($20 one-way, $30 return; return tickets must be purchased in advance).

By bus

There are three flavours of bus available in Hong Kong , operated by a multitude of companies. While generally easy to use (especially with Octopus), signage in English can be sparse and finding your bus stop can get difficult. Buses are pretty much your only option for traveling around the south side of the island and Lantau.

The large double-decker buses cover practically all of the territory, stop frequently and charge varying fares depending on the distance. The first seats of the upper deck offer great views. The franchised bus operators in Hong Kong include Kowloon Motor Bus (KMB), Citybus, New World First Bus and New Lantao Bus. Route and fare information can be found on the companies web sites.

By ferry

A vast fleet of ferries plies between the many islands of Hong Kong . The granddaddy of them all and an attraction in itself is the Star Ferry, whose most popular line travels between Kowloon and Central nearly continuously, and offers amazing views (especially when coming from Kowloon). Upper deck seats costs $2.20, lower deck $1.70, both payable with Octopus (and a quarter of the viewless MTR fare for the same trip!).

Ferries to Lamma, Lantau and other islands depart from a variety of ports, but the largest and most important terminal is at Central adjacent to the Star Ferry. Ferries are usually divided into fast ferries and slow ferries, with fast ferries charging around twice the price for half the journey time, although not all destinations offer both kinds of service. Example fares for trips from Central to Yung Shue Wan (Lamma) are $10/15 slow/fast, and to Mui Wo (Lantau) $10.50/$21. Note that all fares increase around 50% on Sundays and public holidays.

By car

Renting a car is almost unheard of in Hong Kong . With heavy traffic, extremely complex road network and rare parking spaces, renting a car is very unappealing. However, if you must, expect to pay over $600/day even for a small car.

By cable car

There is a cable car to Ocean Park on the southern side of Hong Kong Island , and Ngong Ping Skyrail on Lantau.

What to do

Shopping

Hong Kong is still known as an excellent destination for shopping. Prices are comparably cheaper than the US , Europe or Japan , especially with no sales tax on anything. The variety is a lot better than in most Asian countries. Popular shopping items include consumer electronics, custom clothing, shoes, jewellery, expensive brand name goods, Chinese antiques, toys and Chinese herbs/medicine.

As a generalisation, the Island has the fancy name-brand air-con shopping malls (particularly near Causeway Bay ), while Kowloon is the place to go for cheap open markets. Kowloon also has Nathan Road with many shops selling electronics, cameras and gadgets, mainly to tourists. Some of the business prctices there are quite deceptive and tourists are commonly overcharged. Compare prices before you buy. It would be safer to buy from large chain stores like Broadway or Fortress.

Hong Kong people themselves often shop for some things in Shenzhen just over the border into China .

Special Souvenir

Before leaving Hong Kong , at the International Airport , you may find a shop selling dragon beard candy with icy-crispy taste and texture. It was a dessert for emperor many years ago. Thousands of sugar thread are made by hands in minutes at Bamboo Garden . It may be a good choice to bring Chinese traditional delicacy home.

What to See

The skyline of Hong Kong is one of the best in the world. See the stunning Hong Kong Island skyline from Kowloon .

Guided Walk

Hong Kong Tourism Board offers many free walking tours, including Nature Kaleidoscope Walk and Architecture Walk.

Victoria Peak

Get a stunning view of Hong Kong Island on the Victoria Peak with the giant, Wok shaped Peak Tower . Within the building are shops, restaurants, museums, and viewing points. The Peak Tram runs from Central to the bottom of the Peak Tower .

Horse Racing

The racing season runs from September to June, during which time meetings take place twice weekly, the location alternating between Shatin in the New Territories and Happy Valley near Wan Chai. Of these, Happy Valley is the more convenient and more impressive location, although live races only take place here on Wednesday night. For only HK$10 entrance fee, a night in Happy Valley can be filled with entertainment. Get a local Chinese gambler to explain the betting system to you and then drink the cheap draft beer! Be sure to pick up the Racing Post section in the South China Morning Post on Wednesday to guide you. A 'beer garden' with racing commentary in English available at Happy Valley near the finish line, and many expatriates congregate here during the races.

Local life

The most effective way to know how Hong Kong people live is to experience the local life of an ordinary Hong Kong resident. Go visit a public housing estate and a private one in a row, you witness the difference of rich and poor; go visit a fresh food market and a larger supermarket called "superstore", you witness struggle between small retailers and corporations; go visit one of the small shopping malls in Mongkok, you witness teenagers spend their pocket money on overpriced sneakers and "BAPE" products. Just wander and observe - and don't worry - most areas in town are quite secure.

It is rather sad that most tourists only hang around the several tourist districts. However, it is very worthwhile to go to some more Hongkongish places like Ladies Street, Temple Street, Seafood Street, Apliu Street and so on, which a list of so may be retrieved through the website DiscoverHongKong.com, the official site of the Hong Kong Tourist Board.

Traditional heritage

There are many traditional heritage locations throughout the territory.

* Ping Shan Heritage Trail in Tin Shui Wai, New Territories

* Kowloon Walled City Park in Kowloon City , Kowloon

* Hong Kong Heritage Museum in Shatin, New Territories

* Tsang Tai Uk in the New Territories

* Che Kung Temple in the Sha Tin, New Territories

* Man Mo Temple and Fu Shin Street Traditional Bazaar in the New Territories

* Po Lin Monastery and the Tien Tan Buddha Statue on Ngong Ping,

Hong Kong/Lantau.

Museums

There are a variety of museums in Hong Kong with different themes, but to be honest, the people on the streets seem offer more insights than the exhibits in most of these government-run museums. One exception is the Hong Kong Museum of History.

Nature

Hong Kong is not all skyscrapers, and it's worthwhile to go to the countryside, including the country parks and marine parks.

* Lantau Island is twice as big as Hong Kong and is well worth checking out if you want to get away from the bright lights and pollution of the city for a spell. Here you will find open countryside, traditional fishing villages, secluded beaches, monasteries and more. You can hike, camp, fish and mountain bike, amongst other activities.

* Sai Kung is also a worthwhile place to visit, for its hilly geographic features. If you like challenging, try going onto the Sharp Peak (Am She Tsim in Cantonese)

* Hong Kong Wetland Park is a relaxing park set amidst an ecological mitigation area. One can stroll along a network of boardwalks built over the marshy area and watch birds from a tower. The park also features a large visitors center/museum. The museum has many interactive exhibits ideal for children, as well as some live animal habitats. To visit, take KCR West Rail to Tin Shui Wai Station, then the #705 light rail to Wetland Park . The park is stroller and wheelchair friendly.

The entrance to Hong Kong Disneyland Resort.

The entrance to Hong Kong Disneyland Resort.

Theme parks

* Hong Kong Disneyland opened on September 12, 2005 . It is on Lantau Island .

* Ocean Park is on the southern side of Hong Kong island. With roller coasters and large aquarium altogether, it's still packed on weekends with families and tourists after opening to public for 30 years.

The cablecar is an icon and an essential link between the two parts of the park. The views of the South China Sea from the car is always terrific.

What to Eat

Perhaps the number one highlight of Hong Kong is the cuisine. Not only is it a showcase of traditional and modern Cantonese cuisine, the various regional cuisines from around China , such as Teochew and Sichuan are all well represented.. There are also excellent Asian and Western restaurants as well.

Residents tend to eat out a lot more than in other countries. Perhaps because of this eating out can be fairly cheap, as long as you stick to local restaurants, and avoid the often overpriced western counterparts.

What to Drink

Drinking has not been something the locals were big on in the past but it is becoming much more popular with the younger generation. Thanks to the large numbers of western expats there are plenty of places for them to go and drink, especially on the Island side. The traditional hotspot for both eating and drinking with westerners is Lan Kwai Fong in Central. Wan Chai is also fun, if slightly sleazier with numerous girly bars along Lockhart Road , while Causeway Bay and Eastern Soho out beyond Quarry Bay offer a less touristy experience.

Stay Safe

As large international cities go, Hong Kong is one of the safest, in terms of crime and personal safety. However it does have its share of petty crime, but it can be avoided with some street smarts.

Do not do business with people pushing their cards to you on the streets (so called street hawkers, mainly legal and illegal immigrants near Nathan Road , Kowloon ). They advertise tailor services and consumer electronics and the prices are 20-50% higher than in reliable chain stores and department stores. Usually you are asked to pay half beforehand, and when you come to claim your product, they say it's sold out and offer another model for much higher price. It can be very hard to get your money back from them as they might even hold your credit card as a 'hostage' and refuse to give it back unless you agree to take the more expensive item. Best advice is to avoid street hawkers completely (don't even reply to them or you will attract only more!), and if already in trouble, contact the nearest police officer immediately.

Watch your purse and wallet at all times. When in restaurants, do not sling your pack or purse behind your chair. Clutch any bags or purses in front of you when on the buses and railways.

Stay Healthy

One unexpected cause of sickness in Hong Kong is the extreme temperature change between 35?C (95?F) humid summer weather outdoors and 18?C (65?F) air-conditioned buildings and shopping malls. Some people experience cold symptoms after moving between the two extremes so often; it is not unusual to wear a sweater or covering to stay warm indoors (though the Hong Kong Government currently encourages the temperature in air-conditioned buildings be kept at 25.5 ?C for energy saving, etc.)